Goaßmass, the German calimocho that mixes beer and Coca-Cola, wants to go back into fashion

The combination of beer with Coca-Cola and fruit liqueur It may sound like a hodgepodge worthy of university parties, but it is the recipe for a curious cocktail that we could define as the calimocho - or the michelada - German. Is the Goaßmass or Goaß, a very popular drink in southern Germany during the 80s and that is now resurfacing with new connotations.

The German country does not live outside the fashion of craft beers and other drinks associated with millennials. Claiming today the Goaßmass is a declaration of intent against these globalized trendsIt is even becoming the symbolic drink of urban activism against gentrification, climate change and other social problems of the 21st century.

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To understand the culture around this cocktail The context in which it arises is important. Germany is a very large country with clearly differentiated regions in which lifestyles, customs and gastronomy differ greatly, also in drinks. For the rest of the world it is a beer country - although it is not the most consumed in Europe per capita - that we associate with the Oktoberfest, but the great beer festival is, above all, a purely event Bavarian.

The Germans themselves consider Bavaria as a somewhat special region in terms of tastes and customs, with Munich as the great epicenter from which trends usually arise that extend to other regions. And although some media predict the imminent arrival of the Goaßmass to bars across the country, it may be too local a drink to convince other palates.

Popular and humble drink that is remembered with nostalgia

The 70s and 80s They lived the golden age of this beer cocktail and cola, almost always seasoned with a good shot of cherry liqueur -Kirsch-. It was a popular drink among the youth of the time away from the pretentiousness of the upper classes, very common in discos and student parties.

It was taken in bars without necessarily appearing in any letter and it was also widely consumed in local festivals and events, neighborhood parties and at Stammtisch, a kind of round tables or community meetings of people with some interest in common, very typical in Munich and surroundings.

It could be derived from a sweet beer that the Jesuits created in the 18th century

His specific birth is not very clear, as with so many specialties of humble origin. It relates to the Jesuits of Munich that in the 18th century they produced a lighter variant of beer Bock. It had a sweeter taste and was baptized as Gais, goat, Goaß in Bavarian dialect. It is said that the drink acquired its final form and name at the Straubinger Gäubodenvolksfest festival.

And like so many popular products, the drink is known for other denominations in different areas; In addition to the Goaßnmaß and Goaßmaß variants, the suevos call it Goißmaß, in Upper Franconia it is usually found as Gaaßmoß, Bumber or Bumbarappears more in the Middle Franconia, there are even those who call it, simply, Schwarze ("Black").

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The basic recipe and its variants

How do you prepare a Canonical Goaßmass? The recipe does not have much mystery, although, like the calimocho, it admits variations and personal touches to the taste of the consumer.

  • 0.5 l of black beer or dark blonde.
  • 0.5 l of cola, usually Coca-Cola.
  • 1 type shot Stamperl (4 cl) of Kirsch (cherry liqueur) or brandy.

One is used Beer jar of type Maß, which today has approximately 1 liter capacity. First half is filled with beer, then the soda is added, and the liquor is finished.

Unser Goama gibts an da Biergarten-Bar #goama #bayern #alm #bayern #volksfest #boarisch #cola #kirsch #dunkel #wieninger #almrausch

Of course, there are also defenders of the reverse order, first pouring Coca-Cola and then beer, and more creative versions as far as liquor is concerned. In theory, young people like a fruity and sweet liqueur, but there are versions with whiskey, egg liquor or even raw egg.

In principle, a jug of Goaßmass has less alcohol than a "complete" beer, as long as we do not go hand in hand with the liquor. But it is a very caloric drink, with about 526 kcal per serving

An activist beer?

The popularity of this peculiar beer cocktail began to decline little by little since the 1990s, although some "temples" were maintained where in 2000 they still had a loyal clientele, especially in Lower Bavaria. But a couple of years ago its consumption has experienced a remarkable rebound, as indicated by various media in the country.

It is inevitable that the new generations of young Germans, in their first contacts with beer and alcohol, this drink will get their attention. Beer can be very bitter for novice drinkers, but the Goaßmass is sweeter and softer, with this familiar touch of Coca-Cola. In addition, it is fun to prepare for the carbonated soda reaction with beer. Although past initial curiosity, it does not seem to penetrate thoroughly among youth.

However, it is among the middle-aged Bavarian Germans -or already around fifty-among which this drink resurfaces. It has the inevitable halo nostalgic of past youth, but it is also taking on an activist nuance.

In Munich, as in almost all of Germany and so many other major capitals, the gentrification It has become a serious problem that is triggering the price of housing. Lifetime neighbors and more humble people cannot bear the costs of the rent, which continue to rise while the neighborhoods are transformed.

This drink is defended as a vindication of local tradition and the power of the people

Local and fashion products such as craft beers and so many drinks that are “trend” are associated with this gentrification, that's why retrieve something as popular and local as the Goaßmass has something symbolic. It is a way of vindicating one's own culture, the autochthonous, and reconnecting with a past time in which there was more awareness of social struggle.

Also, as stated in ze.tt, order a jug of Goaßmass instead of Spritz or any other foreign fashion snack is a statement of intentions like protest for the ecological footprint. Faced with the obsession to travel and catch a plane at the first exchange, something purely local is chosen.

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A drink still very localist

The offer of Goaßmass is returning to recover its site in bars, Biergartens and festivals, but it still has ground to reconquer outside its regular consumers. Practically unknown among tourists, neither seems to enjoy great popularity among the thirties who did not know her at the time, even less among those who are not Bavarian of pure strain.

María, a Madrid-based resident in Munich for several years, confirms Direct to the Palate its ignorance, also in his group of friends, all coming from outside. “Nothing sounds to me. I've never seen her in Biergartens, supermarkets or in my usual bars. ”

Nor does it seem to have great success among German co-workers, at least Among those in their thirties. “A girl from northern Bavaria in her life has heard about it. Two from Munich capital say they know the drink but neither of them drinks it. However, one of them has friends who like it a lot because it tastes sweet. ” They also confirm that at parties under 20 their presence is only anecdotal; It is known, but still little is drunk.

Obacht Den bayerischen Nummer Eins Sommerdrink, die Goa gibts natürlich a bei uns. Ob als Hoibe, Ma oder auch mit doppeltem Schuss. Ab zum Stiftl ins Tal. #goassmass #goass # münchen #wirtshaus #bier

Maybe to the Goaßmass it lacks some more travel to conquer other palates, as happened to our calimocho, or the sangria. Beer alone is already a popular drink that is very easy to consume and attractive for all ages, so it may be that the reduction with Coca-Cola does not have much pull, beyond curiosity. Not surprisingly, it has been criticized as a "feminine" drink for being so sweet and lazy.

Maria herself links this cocktail with the Spezi, a mixture of Coca-Cola with orange refesci very popular among children and young nostalgic of Bavaria and Austria, without alcohol. Deep down, beyond the symbolism that you want to be able to give, the rebirth of those drinks depend a lot on that nostalgic factor.

We will have to wait to see if it will have enough potential to go from momentary fashion to trend outside of Bavaria.

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